For the Love of British Food

I was in Dorchester yesterday - I managed to set myself up 3 mystery shopping assignments in the area and the combined fees made my hour and a half journey worthwhile. I also looked forward to it as a bit of an escape. Oddly enough, when I checked my horoscope on my igoogle page in the morning, it was exactly what I was prescribed.

I left late morning, which was good as apparently it was lethally icy earlier on. It was a nice bright winter’s day and it’s a pleasant drive after you get off the M27/A27. I wondered if I might find something to blog about food-wise and was working on the idea of foods that Dorset was well known for. I’ve already mentioned apple cake, so that was out. Dorset Blue Vinny cheese was one possible avenue and I thought I might find a cheese shop in Dorchester after my assignments were done.

The first job was west of the town, but soon done, and I had also very soon finished the second one in the town centre. As I came out into the street, it started to rain hard. My mind was on coffee and maybe a piece of cake, but was distracted temporarily by a rather nice little cook shop in Antelope Walk called Owen and Simpson. I was after a mini-grater specifically for chocolate to go into my bed-time drink and found an inexpensive one the right size. I also looked enviously at a Le Creuset casserole in a shape I hadn’t seen before, but it was MUCH too expensive to even think about. Ebay, maybe baby!

Coffee or tea, and finding a loo was now rather a priority. I regretfully dismissed the idea of finding a quaint tea-shop and dived into Costa Coffee. I have to say that it isn’t my top favourite coffee shop chain, but it would do. A cappucino and lemon-orange muffin later, I came out into the rain again and realised I needed to get back to the car or risk a ticket, so no more wandering. The rain really was coming down in stair-rods too. Back in Antelope Walk, my attention was caught by a shop called The Celtic Kitchen with a sign outside saying ‘Cornish Pasties’. Oh, yes I thought - in Dorset - could they be the real deal?

Inside two smiling people in blue aprons were eager to offer me not just the traditional pasty, but a whole assortment to choose from. I chose Chicken Leek and Cheese from an enticing menu featuring no less than 18 different flavours, including Lamb and mint, Pork and Apple, Turkey, stuffing and cranberry, Spinach and Feta cheese, Stilton, Apple and walnut and two vegan options.

The ‘Traditional’ Cornish Pasty recipe as available in the shop contains finely chopped skirt steak, potato, swede and onion. Pasties used to be the lunchtime staple food for Cornish tin miners. The idea was that they could have meat and vegetables in one end and some will tell you, something sweet in the other. The pastry case was supposed to be robust enough to survive being dropped down a mine shaft or at least to withstand being carried to work and to last till break time.The thick edge where the pastry edges joined could be held with dirty hands and thrown away afterwards.

The modern version features a more edible pastry outside. I’ve never come across anywhere that made pasties with a sweet filling one end, but doubtless someone will tell me about it. Some more pasty info here .

I wondered how they could distinquish between all the different varieties and was told that each flavour was a slightly different shape, or was crimped differently round the edges or had a little decorative piece of pastry on the top as a unique mark. Mine had what could have been a ‘C’ but could also have been a crescent moon.

Thw shop owners Jon and Gemma Hardwick enthusiastically told me about their products. The pasties are made in Helston, Cornwall, and arrive in the shop uncooked. They are hand-made as far as possible from meat and vegetables sourced in Cornwall and baked in the shop, although not on the traditional solid-fuel cooking range that is now a just a decorative feature.

They also sell a limited range of cakes including one that is a local recipe, or local to Dorset anyway. It’s a yeasted tea-bread that originated in another Dorset town but the bakery where it was made closed some years ago. They also sell a ginger cake, a lemon drizzle cake and others which are made and baked in the shop. I had to decline one of these as I have plenty of home-baked, but will certainly try one if I visit again.

Back home this evening, I reheated my pasty in a moderate oven as instructed. It was substantial and tasty and with extra vegetable or salad accompaniment might easily have fed two. I had my shopping reports to do, so ended up eating it on its own as a late supper- all the better to appreciate all the flavours.

My thanks to Jon and his daughter for an excellent product and one I can definitely recommend. Antelope Walk is a little cobbled alleyway running between Trinity Street and South Street, and The Celtic Kitchen is at the South Street end, Unit 17. Tel 01305 269377

I never did find my elusive Blue Vinny cheese, but there is always a next time….

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